Countouring, Highlighting and Blush!

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In today's practical session we expanded on our base knowledge and we learned how to shape the face using powder products.

 We started our session by cleansing, toning and moisturising the skin. It's important to do this to remove any make up and leave the skin clean, leaving you with a nice base to start work on.

 I worked with Billie today. I was aware from observing her in a previous session that she has dry skin. To take this into account I had put extra moisturizer on her earlier. I also took out the Illamasqua Satin Primer as an extra precaution. Using the Kryolan UltraFoundation Custom 8 Palette, I mixed together a foundation shade for Billie.

 Her shade was:
- Ivory
- Alabaster
- FS 38

 I mixed the foundation on the back of my hand to warm the product up before applying it to the face. Starting with her nose, I use the foundation brush and work the foundation down the nose, under the eyes. I make sure to load the brush when doing the cheeks because it's a larger area and I like to try and apply it from the cheeks down the jawline and onto the neck. I feel as though this gives a smoother application and not as likely to become patchy.

 I found that Billie's skin was just absorbing the product to a certain point and then the rest of the foundation was just sitting on the skin. It wouldn't blend in. It's not until I'm halfway through the application that I realise that I didn't apply the Satin Primer. Looking back on this session I can pin point the moment that I became frustrated and it was forgetting the Primer was my Achilles's heel. I lost faith in myself and I felt like it was all going to go wrong anyway.

 Grabbing the Dermacolour camouflage palette, I mix up a concealer for under the eyes. Thinking back to the colour theory lesson we'd had previously, I added in some yellow tones to the concealer for the darkness under the eyes. I can say I was pretty happy with the results as the yellow tones in it brightened the area. Billie has quite a few blemishes so when it came to covering them I used a softer brush so it wouldn't aggravate the areas.

 Using the Kabuki, I buffed the foundation and concealer in. I start to feel more positive when everything seemed to blend in really well. The colour disappeared on her skin and the concealer didn't give her panda eyes. The Kabuki buffing also got rid of any brush strokes that were visible from the foundation brush.

 Powder time. Using the triangle puff I dispense some Illamasqua translucent powder onto the back of my hand. Pressing the puff into the powder, I use a rolling motion and roll it onto the the T-zone because I feel were this is were grease based foundations move the most. After this, I use a large powder brush and sweep the rest of the powder over the face.

 It's time to contour and highlight.  It's at this part of the lessons it becomes very obvious why we need to keep clean hands. As you need to feel your model's face to find the cheekbones to get the best application.

 Taking the Kryolan Blusher Palette Classic Matt. I took the shade in 101 and scrapped out some out couch roll to prevent cross contamination, I use the blusher brush to take it under the cheekbones where I have just pressed to feel the shape of them. I take it up to the hair line. I start using the colour sparingly as it is quite a dark shade. I love how it made her cheek bones pop. I shaded up into the temples to to give the face a more oval shape. I like Billie's jaw line so I contoured there was as well. It is important when contouring there to not bring it over the jawline was it'll look like a beard.

 Highlight! I use the Kryolan Glamour Glow Essence Palette and the shade I chose is Pale Tan. I found these products really iridescent and hard to blend. I put this over the top of her cheek bones and it made them look really sharp against the contrasting colour I'd used to contour with. It's amazing to think we use the same techniques in art to make drawings/paintings looks 3D or realistic. Shadows and light to make things look closer and further away.

 I mix up a blush from the Kryolan Blusher Palette Classic Matt, using the shades TO and 665G with a hint of Youth Red. Upon applying this colour it made Billie's cheeks look quite rosy but against the contour and highlighter shade it looked off. I'm close to losing the will to live at this point because nothing I seem to be doing is going right and it's truly disheartening.

 I ask Sue for feedback because I feel as though this is a train wreck. Nothing will blend away, and that's my fault because I forgot my primer. Sue tells me that my colour match is good and that from our conversation earlier, she can see where I used less products (I was literally caking on the foundation because I thought Billie's skin was going to absorb it all) and told me that the blush made her look flushed. The only other piece of feedback was

 When I photographed Billie, it actually looked a lot better on camera than I thought it would. Not all bad right?
photo 12122790_10153245670291313_1594487815569173941_n_zpswz7jrgxa.jpg

 photo 12141805_10153245670496313_5492992645242438581_n_zpss4pp1mqh.jpg


If I could go back:
- I'd probably mix the primer with the foundation to make sure that it has a little bit more of a liquid texture to make it easier to work with and it might be less likely to cake and stick in place
-I'd think more about the shade I'm contouring with. What I mean by this is what shade of blusher do I want to use? How will it be affected by the contour colour
- I would try and get more product off of the brush before I highlight because that doesn't move! It's really hard to blend away something that shimmers.
I feel really defeated after seeming to do badly in two separate make up practicals and it makes me really sad, I beat myself up about feeling like I'm failing. I don't like to give up so I'll read back over my notes and might make some note cards to take to my next practical so I don't make the same mistake twice.


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